House Rules - Napoleonics

As is probably very well known to most gamers of this period, I have developed my own set of Napoleonic Rules over the years, it is a labour of love and passion for detail and historical accuracy. I will not claim I have achieved that but it is my aim and long time goal to do so.

The system came about as a result of playing the original orange Airfix book written by Bruce Quarrie. I loved that system so much because he himself had a passion for detail and accuracy. My friends and I played that system for years and enjoyed it regardless of its complexity.

I have already gone into great detail on another post here regarding my early years and the natural progression from one set to another, my likes and dislikes and so on. What follows here is a small indication of what I have achieved through my own research and many hours of gaming and the trial and error that entails. These pictures show the many laminated cheat sheets I have for my system and their detail. They are colour coded simply to denote the various sections of the system. They are all double sided and packed full of meat.

Red - Small Arms fire / Coloured - Casualty Matrix
The Fire Matrix table denotes the different fire disciplines of all troop types and the modifications they render to the ability to maintain fire discipline of the inevitable drop of all order. The better the fire discipline the less likely this is to happen quickly.

Blue - Canister fire These charts are 4 pages (2 sheets) long and give you all the information you need in order to fire canister from any and all cannons and howitzers. These charts are very thorough complete with ranges and modifications for calibre etc.



Pink - Roundshot fire These charts are also 3 pages long (6 sides) and packed full of detail for every calibre gun tube for the firing of solid shot or roundshot. The matrix chart of the left shows the initial chance to score hits with a number of potential barrels cross-referenced with the random dice roll which is modified by situational factors. I am looking at developing this more in the near future.

Orange - Howitzer fire The Howitzer fire chart is only two pages long with the first side showing the ranges and modifiers for each direct hit. The side that can be seen is the matrix for finding the actual number of hits based on the total number of tubes compared to the random roll (modified) across the lest. Note the 3rd page of the Roundshot charts also shown here recording all of the situational factors and so on after the number of hits has been determined.

Green - Movement and formation There are a total of 6 charts for this section, a massive 12 pages full of information devoted to Manoeuvre, Movement and Formation changes. A very detailed record of movement allowances has been given for troop Class and formation type to indicate their total allowable movement rate per turn.

Yellow - Morale, Reaction and Control These charts are probably the most important charts of the entire system, they are that of the Morale tests. This section is the aim of all of the other charts combined, to cause the enemy to have to take a Morale check. The more tests the enemy must take the more likelihood that you may start a domino effect causing surrounding friendly units to test when others lose their bravery and begin to fall back or break. Obtaining a domino effect rout on the enemy can be very difficult but once it happens it is game over!!

White - Order Activation and CV's These charts, 8 pages long are devoted to that of Order Activation and the conveyance of those orders through a mechanic called the, CV (Command Value). This number is assigned to each and every unit of every nation but also to each Commander (General) from the Brigade upwards. These CV's are crucial in determining a unit's ability to follow orders and carry them out in a timely manor. If your CV's are being systematically lost to enemy action your ability to hold on or carry out orders diminishes very quickly.

Purple - Charging and Melee These charts, 6 pages long are devoted to all of the Charge Rules, Melees and close combats of the system. They are very detailed and thoroughly thought out. These rules, unlike many other systems do not allow the player to simply call a charge and carry it out. This system forces the player to roll a dice based on a Charge chart to determine the likelihood of the charge being ordered in the first place. Those charges that fail to hit home become dangerous for those caught in front of an enemy who they failed to make contact with. The Melee system is very thorough and when the rare occurrence of a melee actually happens the mechanics are very enjoyable for the participant players.

Peninsula Battle Feb 09

Hi all,

My friends and I recently completed a battle involving French and British forces in a fictitious battle in the Peninsula. The battle was your classic Attack / Defense setting where the British had taken up defensive positions along a line of hills with a dominant village central to the field. The battle, although not large in size was a significant battle because a couple of the newer players got their baptism of fire as formation commanders during this action.

As can bee seen from the panoramic view of the field left, the British had taken up defensive positions along a ridge line. The dominant hill on the left flank was occupied by a strong British Brigade of Infantry while the hills to the right flank were defended by two more strong brigades of Infantry. The centre was covered by a series of stone walls and an orchid which were the position of a Spanish Brigade. To their front was a village which was the objective of the British Light Brigade of Riflemen from the 60th / 95th and Spanish Cacadores. These men played an important pivotal role in the ensuing battle.

The French deployed opposite the British lines in low lying land dissected by fields. The right flank was very light on with only a single brigade positioned here to cover any British advance. The centre and British right flank was the scene of the major push by the French forces to come. The French left flank was covered by a strong contingent of French Infantry supported by a powerful Cavalry force. The centre of the field was the main line of attack where a division was deployed to punch through the village and split the British line in two. The French right was to hold defensively while the French left was to advance in support and occupy a foot bridge in order to deny it to the British as a crossing point.

Right from the start things did not go well for the French, the attack on the left flank was halted by greatly superior forces that halted them. The Bridge was for a time captured but the British brought up numbers in the centre and the position became untenable. The order came to withdraw back to the original positions while the focus was switched towards the centre of the line.

It was felt that a push through the centre would draw off reserves from both flanks making another push a possibility for the French. Subsequently the order to take the village became the primary concern. This struggle between a French brigade and that of the crack 95th, 60th and Cacadores became a violent intense fight. The deadliness of the rifle armed troops gradually gave them the advantage and the French were eventually forced backwards.

As a result, the French command brought up there last Infantry reserves, that of 4 battalions of combined Grenadier companies. This elite formation received orders to advance across the centre of the French position and attack the enemy position atop the British centre left. Located on the crest of this ridge line was a stone church, the French batteries in support fired on the church causing it to quickly catch alight and burn. The British defenders withdrew but took up positions now in front of the burning church as the red plumed Grenadiers began to climb the hill.

Acting in concert with this attack was the French brigade on the extreme French right flank. This brigade had taken no part in the action thus far but were now to act in support and advance up the slope in a coordinated effort to pin the British to their front while the Grenadiers made the main attack. As the French advanced they could only see the light companies of the British line scattered across the face of the ridge firing sporadically at the French line. Their main body, that of an entire Brigade lay hidden over the crest waiting ready as the French drums beat the advance.

The French advance acting in concert between the Grenadier and Fusilier brigades made good progress forcing the British lights to withdraw rapidly, however, this was short lived. Suddenly and with no warning the crest line erupted along its length as 3,000 British troops from 4 battalions advanced over the slope to pour volley after volley into the stunned heads of the French Grenadier columns and the Fusilier line. The effect was devastating, the French formations collapsed in confusion and broke. The onslaught of these volleys wreaked havoc amongst these brave veterans who could not take the pounding they received.

As quickly as they advanced several French battalions broke and routed back down the hill taking other wavering units with them. The result was resounding in its success for the British who let out a loud hurrah! as they advanced to seal the fate of the remaining French units. All was lost and the French right flank was gone in less than 15mins.

This battle was more so a training battle for a couple of the newer players who enjoyed the spectacle of what occurred. They learnt a great deal about what to do in the system and more so, what not to do. The guys seem to really enjoy the system I developed and am still developing, their questions and comments were greatly appreciated by myself and the veteran players who equally enjoyed conveying their experience with the system and all the do's and dont's. I am sure these guys are completely hooked now after playing several battles with the system and we will only grow and bond as were progress through our future clashes.

Regards,
Shane

My painting style

Hi all,

For me, painting the figurines is a very important facet of the hobby. I tend to perfect my painting style by copying the work of others, studying their methods and using the same techniques. I enjoy painting, building a unit and watching the creation grow right before my eyes.

For me seeing bland tin soldiers turn into master pieces of dedication, animating them with colour and depth really encompasses what I find the most enjoyable aspect of the hobby. Seeing what others have done and trying to achieve the same results is very satisfying for me, after all, we all learn from each other. I might at times become bored with painting but when I gaze upon the finished product and its beauty I cannot help but pull out the next bunch of shinny tin figures and start all over again on the next project.

I paint predominately 15-18mm miniatures with a tendency towards AB figures, this brand of figure lends itself perfectly to the manipulation of the paint brush and an end result that can be amazing even for those less able to paint well. As can bee seen from the photos all of these figures I have painted are AB. I also enjoy painting Old Glory figures and at times prefer them because of the added animation they seem to have. A very well painted Old Glory unit can look just as good as an AB one and at times even more so. I also use a variety of other brands in my collection which I also favour due to the variety of figures I have acquired over the years and painted up.

Here are a few photos of some of my work both past and present:

This picture is of North Italian Infantry in formation on the attack, the North Italians have some of the most beautiful uniforms to paint in combinations of White, Red and Green, they make for a nice looking army once deployed in formation on a table top.

Here can be seen a formation of Highlanders I painted up for a friend a few years ago, I painted up the entire 3rd Division (Picton's) for him eventually.



Here also is another British unit painted up, that of a Line regiment of Picton's 3rd Division.






I also paint for myself and some of my best work is in here, I enjoy the French army and its uniforms filled with every kind of style and colour imaginable. Here are a couple of images of French Carabiniers I have painted over the last few years.










Now I will write out the procedure that I use :

Cleaning - First of all I clean the figure by getting rid of all excess metal, scrape the base so the figure will stand upright and generally make sure the figure is perfectly aligned with plumes standing upright and muskets/bayonets perfectly straight.

Base Undercoat - I then do a Black-wash using Humbrol 85 Satin Black over each figure, (I grew up with Enamels and prefer them over acrylics). This black wash is watered down with turpentine to turn the figure into a very dull grey colour with all of the black seeping into every crease and fold of the figure.

Baking - Next I set all the figures on a standing tray and leave them in the HOT sun for several hours, I turn them around so that the sun cooks all sides of the figures evenly. This is to bake the black wash onto the figures.

Bayonets/Swords - Next I take my hobby knife and run it along the edges of the bayonets, this chips off the black wash exposing the shinny metal of the figure. I only expose the long edges and other areas which would, if real weapons remain lighter and worn areas of metal. Doing this while leaving the other areas of the bayonets black gives a good illusion of worn metal. With swords I will scrape closely both sides of the sword, especially the sharpened edge of the blade. I leave the blood grove dark (black-wash) for depth and shading perception. Doing this really adds to the realism of the exposed metal edges giving a good effect.

Sealing - Next I spray Testors Model Master Lusterless (Flat) 1960 over the figures while still on the tray so that the clear coat covers all surfaces. I then place the figures back out in the sun to bake once more. I prefer to allow the black wash and the clear coat to set for another day or more depending on the weather. The purpose of the clear sealer is to seal the black wash on the figure so that once you begin to paint the figure the black will not cause problems with colours such as white, red or yellow etc.

Faces / Hands - I first paint all the faces only applying paint (flesh) to the tips of the noses and a triangle on each check. I will also paint on the chin and forehead where I need to. I will also paint on a curve for the ears if they show. I am very careful to not let the different parts of the face where I apply the flesh colour to touch. This is to show depth and shading.

Brass/Silver - Once the figures are ready I begin by painting all buttons, weapon parts, buckles and shako plates etc with the brass or silver paint as needed. These small areas come first.


Piping/Collars/Cuffs - Next I paint all of the turn backs, piping and collars etc of the figures the appropriate colours as needed making sure not to allow any colours to touch each other but leaving a fine black line between each colour where possible. This is not always possible due to the figure detail etc but when I can I do this.

Pants - I then proceed to paint the trousers and pants of the figures the proper colours. If the uniform is a campaign dress I tend to paint the figures in a variety of colours with an underlying theme of one particular colour with a few other colours amongst them. I leave creases and folds in the pants black to show depth and shading.


Jackets & Shirts - I tend to then begin to paint the jackets and shirts of the figures careful not to let the paint run into the creases and folds of the uniforms. I also leave a fine gap between the uniform and the straps to show depth and shading. Sometimes I will paint the straps and cross belts first, this depends on the figures being painted.

Cross belts, Backpacks and straps - Now I paint all of these areas making sure to be very careful not to let the paint run onto other areas such as the jackets and shirts. I make sure I leave a fine black line between each strap and never allow any of the colour of each strap to touch, again, this is to show depth and shading.

Plumes and Cords - Now I paint all of the plumes and cords the appropriate colours but blotching the paint so that small areas of black wash show through, again this is to show depth and shading.

Touching up - Once I feel the figure is almost done I go back over them touching up any areas that I might have made mistakes on. Cleaning them up and giving them the once over.

Basing - I then proceed to base up the figures and flock them as specified by the rules system into their units.

Clear Coat - Once the unit is totally finished I spray a good solid coat of matt clear over the entire unit and set them out once more in the hot sun to set and bake. This gives the finished product a strong coating that protects the paint from constant touching in war games.

My Napoleonic Journey

Hi,

I am a keen Napoleonic history buff and War Gamer. I have been interested in the period for near 30 years now and can see no sign of my interest waning in this part of world history which fascinates me so much.

I began playing Napoleonic's way back in 1981 while deeply interested in WWII gaming. One of my friends introduced me to Napoleonic's with a couple of local Library books (ospreys) and I and my friends quickly became interested. The more I read the more I desired to learn more and before long I had a copy of Bruce Quarrie's old Airfix book he wrote on Napoleonic's War Gaming.

The level of detail and accuracy shown in the book engrossed me so much in the period I began to purchase every book on the subject and began painting up all the old Airfix figures into armies which soon became very large. We all played many great battles with these rules before purchasing he second more advanced book on Napoleonic War Gaming which only fed the fire even more.

A local shop in my home town was also an inspirational place to visit and the owner also with a deep interest in the period encouraged me to sit in his shop for hours if I desired and read his books. He did not seem to mind if I failed to purchase many of these books because I did eventually purchase every every book on Napoleonic's he had. I eagerly awaited each pay day every week to race back to his shop and grab the newest book that had arrived, he often greeted me with a smile of approval for I guessed he felt a sense of satisfaction that he had converted me with his books on the period of history we both loved so much. Sadly he has passed away now but I remember him fondly for his advice and enthusiastic explanations of columns and lines and musketry, great cavalry charges and cannons.

One day while in his book shop I stumbled upon a set of rules called, "Voltiguer" written by David Millward back in 1977. The rules were much simpler than Bruce Quarrie's system to the point of seeming too simple, but some of the guys in my group were looking for a change and something fresh. I showed them the book and the ease of the system and its simple flow allowed us all to enjoy a refreshing look at Napoleonic battles while leaving some of the more intense aspects of Bruce's rules behind.

The system was used by our group for many years during the 80's very successfully and much enjoyment was had playing them. We did add in and modify many aspects of the rules til eventually you did not really recognise the original system anymore. I assume many players can testify to this with house rules which eventually take over the core of the original system used. Eventually by 1990 we had our own complete system of our own which has been the base of what we still play today except that with the advent of good home computers and programmes I was eventually able to data input the entire system on my PC and print them off. Any and all adjustments were a simple case of going to the page, modifying or correcting it and printing the particular page and replacing it in our printed copies. This, for the last 10 or so years has been our format development of our system.

While this was all going on I also managed to put in some time to painting my armies of which my speciality is the French and her Allies. I have built a very large plastics army as I stated but eventually by around 1994-96 we had made the switch to metal 15's. As much as it was a very hard decision to make for us it was a matter of need, the variety back in those days of plastics was pathetic and conversions were not so easy to accomplish. We steamrolled along very rapidly in the new scale and very quickly we all noticed large French, Russian, Austrian, British and Prussian forces were beginning to get fielded in our battles. Include this with an influx of already painted armies we had purchased from other players we could begin to play battles like Waterloo etc easily.

Over the years I had become a fairly competent painter and enjoyed seeing the finished product very much, the more positive feedback I gained the more encouragement and confidence I gained to tackle harder jobs and eventually I was in demand to paint by many other people. Over a period of 5 years I had made a good living painting for others but this took a great deal of my time and my own painting suffered. I eventually put a stop to it and over the last several years only paint for myself unless it is a critical request to paint a specific regiment such as Guards or commander figures etc.

I paint just about any manufactures figures and enjoy painting most of them, some more than others. I, as most of us do, admire AB figures but I also have a soft spot for a good part of the OG range and in some cases prefer painting them, one reason for the price but also for the detail and range of poses available within a bag of 30, 50 or 100 figures. I have painted figures most of my adult life and much of my teen years for that matter and have developed my own style. Many people have commented very favourably on my completed works to the point where I held painting classes for others to teach them my method, although if is methodical I feel, as do many others the completed work is worth the almost ritualistic way I approach the painting of these silver tin figures.

I hope soon the explain my painting methods and style in a later post.

Regards,
Shane